Instructions to install Geo Booster
These are the instructions that were sent to me. I have included my comments and modifications in red for easier reading. If you have not read my warning on my title page, please do so now.
Parts Required from Salvage Yard:
1.) Brake booster/master cylinder from '89-'94 Geo Metro or Suzuki Swift. Make sure to get the pin that attaches the booster to the pedal and the nuts that mount the booster to the firewall. Also get the foam gasket that is on the fire wall. Trace this onto a piece of poster board to make a template for installing.
2.) Wiring pigtail to stop lamp switch on '73-'79
Ford Pickup. Cut off as much wire as possible.
Parts required from the Auto
1.) One 3/16"x 2" cotter pin
10.)One pint of brake fluid
1) Disconnect battery, (I know, every thing starts
out this way and usually for no reason. This time there is a reason.)
5) '60- '64 connect the two green wires together that were on
the brake light switch. I cut and soldered them. '65 can disregard this
(This is the trickiest part of the entire installation. I took the use of the 5/16" washers in this step as optional. The booster needs the shims on the bottom two holes to make room for the master and reservoir to fit, but the amount and type can vary. I used two 5/8 thick washers on my two lower bolts, and am glad I did. It allowed me to use the original master pushrod hole instead of drilling a new hole lower on the pedal.)
(I ran all new lines. I suggest you do the same, since kinking a brake line is BAD. If you do what Mark suggests here, please be VERY careful. It doesn't take much to kink a brake line, and this can cause restriction of the brake fluid's flow or worse: a leak.
The Geo system also uses 3/16" line like the stock Falcon, HOWEVER, it has METRIC threaded fittings. Mark explained to me that he was able to thread the standard lines into the Geo master without any leaks developing. I decided on purchasing adapters to thread into the master so it absolutely mated with the standard brake line.
This Geo master has three lines running from it. The top line that feeds the front driver's side brake is a tight fit because of the brace running overhead. On this fitting I didn't have the room necessary to install the adapter that the other lower two ports have. Nevertheless, the standard line did thread into the metric port and tightened down. I have checked the line from time to time to find no leaks.)
11.) Set the reservoir in place and use the 3/16" cotter pin to hold it in place.
(I used the original rollpin on mine. In my opinion, it is much cleaner looking, and I haven't had any problems with it yet.)
You may have to indent the edge of the cowl brace slightly with a hammer. It doesn't need to move very far and is not noticeable when you are done. There are two wires that come out of the Geo reservoir that worked a low fluid light. They can be cut off or left on.
(I used a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw and cut a semicircle in my brace. See more of this in the Geo Brake section)
(I did have to grind off and punch out the original pin that the old push rod attached to, but I didn't need to drill a new hole. My spacers under the booster allowed me to attach the Geo booster's pushrod in the original position of the stock manual pushrod.)
13) In '60-'64s, reconnect the battery. The brake lamps should be on. Find the dark green wire where the wires exit the steering column. Disconnect this wire and the brake lamps will go off. Crimp the "bullet" connectors on the Ford truck pigtail. Plug the pigtail into the green wire that you disconnected. Plug the stop light switch into the pigtail. The lights should now be on . Test the switch by pushing the button. The lights should go on and off. Install the switch into the hole that the rubber bumper was removed from. Adjust the two nuts until the lights are off.
On '65 crimp the "spade" connectors onto the pigtail.
Plug these wires into the plug that was on the old brake light switch.
Everything else installs the same as the early cars.
(Please note that Mark owns a Ranchero with four wheel disc brakes. I installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and am happy that I did. I am able to get much better braking out of my system, which is front disc with drum back brakes.)
I have tested this on wet roads and snow and ice covered roads.
I have no problem with premature wheel lockup. This conversion may not be
for every one, but anyone that drives their Falcon on a regular basis
should consider it for safety reasons. If you have ever had the old style
single reservoir system fail, you know why I did this.