Quirk's Air Conditioning Installation Project - Continued
Compressor Belt Idler
Ultimately we moved the idler assembly to the right of the water pump and designed my own belt-tensioning mechanism. The eccentric they provided put the pulley so far forward that it could not be modified to work either, so we pitched it and used a fabricated spacer (reference picture: Comp #1). I wish I took a picture of the mount before we modified it, but you can see the drawing showing the original design, as well as the in process modified mount (reference picture: Comp #2). Look in the lower right corner of the drawing; you can see it’s a major modification we made to the mount. Possibly a 65/66 thermostat housing and radiator hose route are different than my 64? Again, who knows. Note that our idler pulley pushes on the back side of the belt (reference picture: IdlerPush) not from the inside like designs I’m familiar with. Issue there? Don’t know. We slotted the compressor mount to allow the idler pulley to slide to allow for belt tension adjustment (reference picture: IdlerSlot). It’s not a design I’m familiar with, but it works!
I simply did not want to modify or move the alternator or PS pump to make them align with the Vintage pulley, it could be done, but too many issues. So, look closely (reference picture: Pulley #1) and you can see that my stock/OEM pulley had an empty groove in the middle. That is the groove I targeted - and ultimately used - for the A/C belt. I still have the PM11 pulley; its kind of large for a paper-weight, but I leave it on my work bench as a reminder of the project, or to prop the back door open when I need circulation in the garage.
Electrical, Hoses, Cables and Basic Plumbing
ControlSwitch#1 and ControlSwitch#2).
(ControlSwitch#1 and ControlSwitch#2)
Again, the drawings left a lot to be desired, neglecting any clues or any of the little details that would save you from wasting a lot of time. As an example, the A/C and heater hoses end up coming through the firewall where the OEM fan-blower was, through a plastic bulkhead (reference picture: BulkHead) that fits around the hole left by the OEM fan motor. It’s a clean little bulkhead that attempts to align the hoses relative to the holes that were used to bolt down the OEM fan, but in the real world, the way the hoses come through the bulkhead vs. the way they connect to the evaporator are not in alignment (reference picture: BulkHeadTwisted).
(BulkHead and BulkHeadTwisted)
Note that there is a flat spot on the top of the bulkhead. That flat spot should be about 35-40 degrees to the right, but to align the hoses to the connections on the evaporator picture (reference: EvapPlumbing) it has to be twisted to the left. It’s a minor issue, one I’d write off as ‘expected’, and with a little effort it’s no big deal, just annoying in the final stages of completion, and then some extra sealer required to make it air & sound tight. Oh yeah, the connection in the upper left in this picture (it’s the A/C inlet hose with a thermostat sensor) needed to be adjusted; the part with the little white plastic cap was pointing up and there was NO WAY to make the hose connection. I had to remove the insulation and point it down, HOPE that this thermostat thing did have to be pointed up to function correctly – what did I know?!? (Ultimately, it didn’t matter).
Condenser & Drier
In the drawing there appears to be hoses routed between these parts, not the tube and connectors it actually has. It appears to me they upgraded this assembly, but if I had to guess (sarcasm here) they never measured after the modification to see if it still fit. The clean looking drier mount, tubes & connectors are nice, but they add 1 3/8" to the overall width of the condenser assembly, making it 1 3/8" too wide for the recess area (reference picture: DrierSpace). Note that the left edge of the ruler lines up with the edge of the recess (which you can see as well) and the way the tube extended beyond the radiator recess. I don’t recall seeing Falcons with different core-support designs, but then again, FoMoCo may have changed one of their ‘Better Ideas.’ Bottom-line, if you remove the drier, the condenser and its brackets fit into this relief area.
Also, where they want to drill through the core-support to route the hoses from inside the engine compartment to the condenser, you'd drill two holes right into my battery; Hummm, not a good idea. The red ‘holes’ in this picture (reference picture: BatteryLine) represent where they say to drill, and you can see where I outlined the battery (red arrows). Besides, it would be next to impossible to route the hoses their way, even if you could bend the very-stiff hoses between the battery and the radiator core-support. For the record, the battery and tray are OEM, never moved. Lastly, instructions say there is already one hole there, from the factory. Look at the picture; nope.